Prepare For The Worst But Expect The Best

In this episode

Welcome to Part 2 of Garrett McNamara, a legendary surfer who owns a world record for the largest wave ever surfed – 100 feet tall – which is the equivalent of the 10-story office building or the height of Niagara Falls.

He is the first person ever to ride a wave created by breaking glaciers. Garrett is the author of the book “Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.” and the star of the fantastic HBO documentary TV series called “100 Foot Wave”.

He is also a dedicated philanthropist. Garrett and his wife, Nicole, started an amazing Waves of Life McNamara Foundation, which helps kids to discover nature and be more environmentally conscious and self-sufficient, with a particular focus on disadvantaged kids.

In this episode, we are talking about the big waves in Portugal, his team and preparation process, how to face the fear of death, his McNamara Foundation and so much more!

10:10 Surfing big waves at 50/60 miles per hour

Extremely dangerous
If there's no wind and it's glassy and smooth

12:38 Coming to Nazare in Portugal

In 2005, got an email from Dino in Nazare, Portugal
Emailed Larry Hamilton first, then Carlos Burle
Garrett replied right away

15:40 How does a big wave form?

The many variables that go into a wave
In Portugal, waves are formed by a shelf 30-60 feet deep
Coming of the swell
Rogue wave at the shore
Waiting on the wave and the thought process
How to know if it’s a big wave

23:54 Garrett’s team and what they do

Nicole, his wife
Safety drivers, trainers
First responder, ambulance, fireman, lifeguards
Videographers
Partners and sponsors
Lawyers and advisers
It’s all about surrounding yourself with people with the same goals

27:05 Training and diet for big wave surfing

Training can be focused or open
People aren’t drinking or doing drugs
Training 3-7 days a week
Garrett's current training regimen
Garrett has tried all the diets
Loves a good organic, grass-fed, free-range steak, chicken and fish

37:12 Facing death and the fear of dying

Never lost a tow surfer until last year in Nazare
Probably drowned, but the results of the autopsy didn’t come out
Big wave surfing deaths were many throughout the years
Every big wave is different
When you get pounded, the main thing is to relax and enjoy it
You have zero control you have you're at the mercy of the ocean
If you prepare properly and you have a good team, you know you're not going to die
How many times did Garrett almost die?
Fear of going out surfing
How to conquer your fears

52:31 Extreme Preparation in the world of big wave surfing